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Odlazak velikana – Retrospektivni pogled na neke od najvažnijih radova Petera Lindbergha

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Nazaobilazno ime u svijeta mode, ugledni njemački fotograf Peter Lindbergh koji je promijenio standarde ne samo fotografije, već i poimanja ženske ljepote, preminuo je u 74. godini.

Iza sebe je ostavio brojne legendarne naslovnice u časopisima poput Vogue, Vanity Fair, Rolling Stone, Harper's Bazaar, Wall Street Journal Magazine, The Face i mnogih drugih.

Lindbergh je bio autor nekih od najpoznatijih modnih fotografija, a njegovi portreti supermodela poput Naomi Campbell, Linde Evangeliste, Christy Turlington i Cindy Crawford oblikovali su savremenu modnu viziju 90-ih.

Njegovi radovi su krasili najuglednije muzeje širom svijeta, od Victoria & Albert muzeja u Londonu, pariškog Centre Pompidou, do njujorškog Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Od fotografija supermodela 90-ih kao anđela, do poznatih crno-bijelih portreta, njegov rad je obilježio čitavu eru, a njegova vizija redefinirala je modnu fotografiju u cjelini, ističući prirodne ljepote kroz sirove portrete, bez photoshopa i uljepšavanja.

Njegove fotografije su definisale status supemodela 90-ih koje i danas slavimo. Odbijao je snimati savršenu ljepotu kakvu su često zahtjevali magazini i to je na neki način postao njegov zaštitni znak.

“Osobu čine zanimljivom osobnost i duša, a ne savršena ljepota” – rekao je Peter 1990. godine.

O svom radu 2017. godine za Pirelli kalendar, Peter je izjavio:

“Ljepota govori o individualnosti, hrabrosti da budete ono što jeste i o vašem vrlo osobnom senzibilitetu – to je moja definicija žene danas. To je cilj kalendara – pokazati ženu. A ne neku istegnutu, izmanipuliranu, praznu (osobu) koju danas vidite u časopisima.”

Nakon vijesti o njegovoj smrti koja je potresla čitav modni svijet, osvrćemo se na neke od njegovih najatraktivnijih i najpoznatijih radova koji će zauvijek odolijevati testu vremena.

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Dearest Peter to sum up your spirit and work in the simplest words – a great master. Your kindness, generosity, humor, soulfulness, compassion and extraordinary talent to see the world with heart leaves us all with more beauty and hope. I send my deepest sympathy to his children and wife Petra. His collaborators and friends which were all the same to him. All who were inspired by this man’s great work in and out of the fashion industry. My heart is very heavy loosing my friend and one my of greatest collaborators. I will miss you so much Petey. Your bear hugs, your smile, your laughter and mostly being seen through eyes. Thank you Peter for your gifts and for sharing them. I love you always. Rip #peterlindbergh @therealpeterlindbergh

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We will miss you Peter 🖤

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7 Era-Defining Peter Lindbergh British Vogue Covers (written by @benknightevans) – Peter Lindbergh’s September 2019 cover is the latest in a line of landmark covers dating back over 30 years. Whilst by no means British Vogue's most prolific cover photographer, all his images have nevertheless been era-defining. Populated almost entirely by supermodels (with the exception of a certain rock star's daughter), they each adhere to Lindbergh's signature "unvarnished" aesthetic that delights in natural beauty and the personality behind the face. Here, we run through the magnificent seven that preceded Lindbergh's latest blockbuster. – JANUARY 1989 Peter Lindbergh's first British Vogue cover traded on 23-year-old Linda Evangelista's natural beauty (as styled by hairstylist Julien d'Ys and make-up artist Stéphane Marais) against the bewitching glamour of a Rifat Ozbek look, bathing her in beautiful natural light. – NOVEMBER 1989 Striking the tricky balance between humour and chic, Lindbergh captured Tatjana Patitz in Vivienne Westwood tartan at Paris' Café de Flore, with a canine friend brought along for good measure. – #LindberghStories #BritishVogue #fromthevault

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7 Era-Defining Peter Lindbergh British Vogue Covers (written by @benknightevans) – MARCH 1990 Ushering in the first new fashion season of the decade, Lindbergh's March 1990 cover, with Helena Christensen in a Giorgio di Sant'Angelo column dress leading a white horse across the sands, semaphored the fresh new era of undone beauty. "For me, it’s really about storytelling," explains Lindbergh. "A narrative changes everything." – September 1990 A dramatic, fashion-free cover lets one of the faces of the 1990s take centre stage as Jade Jagger (dramatically macquillaged by Stéphane Marais) shows to full effect the feline eyes and pillow lips she so fortunately and famously inherited. – JANUARY 1992 Here, Eva Herzigová, Beverly Peele, Petra Lindblad, Claudia Mason and Nadja Auermann form a stunning, Armani-clad coterie of ravishing personalities, proving Lindbergh a master of the group composition in the process. – SEPTEMBER 1992 Lindbergh's most recent British Vogue cover to date, for September 1992 Linda Evangelista took a turn as a New York City cab driver in a double-breasted pinstripe waistcoat with chunky silver jewellery by the American designer Jacqueline Rabun and punched driving leather gloves. – #LindberghStories #BritishVogue #fromthevault

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“‘I said to Peter, was that it? We’ve just shot it? I thought he was doing a test shot… It was very pure,” laughed Kidman, who was photographed in a run-down hotel in Los Angeles. ‘To be given the [Pirelli] calendar at this stage, culturally, is saying there’s choice. As a woman, I know that in my personal life my husband totally prefers me with no makeup. And then there’s the flip side of, OK now I’m going to become a new character and look completely different. But that’s that choice; we’re allowed to have choice. It’s a very important message… It’s also about taking away judgment, the freedom of the individual to be who are we are.’” – Taken from ‘ Naked While Fully Clothed’, a WWD feature written Katya Foreman La Ferla (Nov. 2016) @wwd – #ShadowsOnTheWall #LindberghBooks#NicoleKidman #TASCHEN #TheCal #Pirelli #2bmanagement

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